This distinctly flavorful Omani Maldouf has a subtle molasses sweetness that comes from dates and complements spicier dishes/curries.  

When I crossed into Oman, I had no preconceived idea of what was beyond the United Arab Emirates border.

My first thought was, “We must have taken a wrong turn because we are now on the moon.” The landscape was barren with no sign of life in sight. We didn’t have to go far, though, to see evidence of life because at the base of the lunar landscapes were lush date palm trees.

And where there are date palms, there is life. According to Islamic tradition, the date tree is the tree of life in the Garden of Eden. Through the centuries, dates provided daily sustenance. Eating fifteen dates meets the daily requirements for essential vitamins/minerals for survival.

I experienced the magic of dates as my first taste of Oman. They were rich, chewy and sticky sweet, and served with a tiny cup of cardamom-laced coffee. This custom is a sign of hospitality, served both in greeting and after every meal.

A Date with Nizwa

One of the stops in our journey was the historic town of Nizwa, which lies on a plain surrounded by a date palm oasis and towering mountains.

We visited Nizwa Fort, which is a combination of a castle, a fort, and a museum is a great example of Omani architecture and way of life in the 16th century.

Nizwa Fort was constructed with stone, clay, mortar and according to popular legend… date syrup. Date syrup was also used as an alternative to oil and water.

While there, we watched a woman make thin and crispy Omani bread called Khubz Ragag — delicious when freshly cooked. It is made with just three ingredients, flour, water, and salt.

This bread cooked on a round stainless griddle over a gas cooktop, and removed using a paint chipper, then folded in quarters for us to eat. It was like eating crispy air.

We saw rooms to store and dry dates as well as process date syrup. This valuable fruit sustained life as well as killed it (read on).

Inside the fort, we learned about clever elements that ensured protected from sieges such as the unique cylindrical shaped tower. It features many defense mechanisms such as gun shooting windows, canon openings, and murder holes… murder holes?

I was new to the murder hole concept but basically when an enemy approached the entrance, boiling date syrup would be poured through the holes onto the intruders, leaving them burned, sticky and well… one might say delicious (if you’re a cannibal). Next, heavy objects would be dropped on them… and if they lived through that, trap doors in the floor would presumably finish them off!

Sounds like this place was a date with destiny designed by ACME Corp and written like a Looney Tunes script for Wile E. Coyote and the Road Runner.

Souq Shopping

Next to the fort was the Nizwa Souq (marketplace).

It was full of spices, date syrup, and various whatnots.

There was a huge section just for Halwa, the national dessert. In Arabic “halwa” means sweet. It is cooked in a mirjnl (large cooking pot used for halwa) continually being stirred for more than 2 hours.

I thought it was made with dates because of the color, but the ingredients are butter, caramelized sugar, almonds and flour and the flavor refined with saffron, cardamom and rose water… every halwa is different, as everyone has their own secret version. It is sold in anything from plastic to ornate dishes.

Halwa can be preserved for more than four months without refrigeration or preservatives. It is wildly popular and used for all types of occasions. I could have eaten the whole bowl but did my best to share.

Today’s Recipe: Omani Maldouf 

This unique recipe is from The Food of Oman: Recipes and Stories from the Gateway to Arabia by Felicia Campbell. It is a fascinating look into the culture and food of Oman. If this country is on your bucket list, this book is a great start.

Soak the dates in water until softened, at least 1 hour. Puree with the soaking liquid. Strain over a bowl through a fine-mesh sieve, using a wooden spoon to firmly mash and press the date pulp to extract as much liquid as possible.

Whisk the flour and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the egg and the ghee and mix with a wooden spoon until a crumbly dough forms. Slowly add the date puree, a little at a time, and begin mixing with your hands (add about 2/3 cup of the date puree in total) until the dough comes together knead the dough until smooth and elastic, 2 to 4 minutes.

NOTE: I didn’t want to waste the leftover date puree so I mixed it in adding extra flour to keep the proper consistency. If you are not an experienced baker, stick with the recipe and use the extra puree in a smoothie.

Divide the dough into 10 to 12 golf ball-size balls and briefly knead each baII in one hand until smooth and crease-free. Place in a shallow baking dish or bowl and cover with a damp kitchen towel; let rest at room temperature 1 hour. NOTE: They will not rise.

On a lightly floured surface, using a rolling pin dusted with flour, roll each ball of dough into a thin circle, 8 to 10 inches wide. Brush the surface with melted ghee; fold up the bottom edge about 2 inches from the top, then fold the dough down from the top over the folded half so the dough just touches the bottom edge. You should now have a long, thin rectangle. Brush the surface again with a little ghee and fold each side in, one on top of the other, to make a square.

Roll the square dough out, turning several times, to make a large, thin piece about 8 inches square. Brush the surface again with plenty of ghee.

Heat a medium or large cast-iron skillet over medium heat and fry the bread, ghee side down first, for 45 seconds to 1 minute per side (if it doesn’t puff up, the pan isn’t hot enough), brushing the top with plenty of ghee before flipping to make sure both sides brown evenly.

Transfer to a plate, sprinkle with more salt, if desired, and serve with a curry.

I was excited to have an Omani dinner party when I returned and this cookbook was the perfect place to start. The Omani Maldouf is one of my favorite recipes so far.

This flatbread is simple enough to master so I enlisted the help of a few of my guests to roll and cook.

Steve rolled them, Bob cooked them to perfection, and the rest of us gobbled them up.

I hope you enjoyed this “up to date” lesson and Omani Maldouf recipe from Oman. Who knew date syrup was used for survival, killing, building and of course pleasure. What a multifunctional fruit that will never go “out of date” in my opinion.
…and then, she paused for thought.

Yum